Japan in Winter · story 3 of 3 in this collection
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Onsen Etiquette: How to Bathe Like a Local

Wash first, towel on your head, and never in the water

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A lantern beside a stone outdoor hot-spring bath by a forest river
A lantern beside a stone outdoor hot-spring bath by a forest river
An outdoor rotenburo by the river. Photo: RickardA

Japan's hot springs are one of its great pleasures, and their rules are simple once you know them. A step-by-step guide for your first onsen.

The rules are simple

Japan sits on more than 27,000 hot springs, and soaking in one is the most relaxing thing you can do here. First-timers worry about getting it wrong, but onsen etiquette comes down to one idea: the bath is shared, so arrive clean and keep the water clean.
Baths are separated by gender, and the curtains tell you which is which: red usually for women (女), blue for men (男). In the changing room, undress completely and put your clothes in a basket or locker. Swimsuits are not worn. Take only the small towel into the bathing area.
Sit on a stool at the washing station and scrub thoroughly with the soap and shampoo provided, then rinse off every bubble. Only then step into the bath, slowly, because the water is often 40 to 42 degrees. Keep the small towel out of the water; locals fold it on top of their heads. Do not swim, splash or put your head under. When you are done, rinse at the showers if the water is very mineral, pat yourself dry before you return to the changing room, and drink plenty of water.

Before you go in

  1. Shower and wash thoroughly at the seated stations
  2. Tie long hair up so it stays out of the water
  3. Leave the small towel on the edge or on your head
  4. Keep voices low; an onsen is a quiet place
  5. Do not bathe after heavy drinking

Tattoos

Note
Many public baths still refuse guests with tattoos. Look for tattoo-friendly onsen, cover small tattoos with skin-tone patches, or book a private bath (kashikiri-buro), which most ryokan offer.
Arrive as a guest, leave as a friend of the water.A sign at a Kusatsu bathhouse

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Average rating 4.0 out of 5
1 review
  • Oliver Bennett
    4 out of 5 stars
    3 Oct

    Very useful, especially the transport tips. A few places now need reservations, so book ahead.

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