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ArticleKunene, Namibia6 min read

Flying the Skeleton Coast

Fog, shipwrecks and desert-adapted lions

Average rating 5.0 out of 5
5.02 reviews
The wreck of the trawler Zeila in the surf of the Skeleton Coast, with cormorants on its mast
The wreck of the trawler Zeila in the surf of the Skeleton Coast, with cormorants on its mast
The Zeila, aground near Henties Bay since 2008. Photo: Domenico Convertini from Zurich, Schweiz

The Skeleton Coast is too remote to drive in a few days, so we fly it. A light aircraft journey along one of the wildest coastlines on earth.

Where the desert meets the Atlantic

The cold Benguela current runs north along Namibia's coast and makes a thick fog that rolls inland most mornings. For centuries that fog drove ships onto the sandbanks, and the Portuguese sailors who called this coast "the sands of hell" were not exaggerating. The rusting hulls and whale bones that remain gave the Skeleton Coast its name.
Flying north from Swakopmund in a six-seater, you follow the line where the dunes run into the surf. Below are the wreck of the Eduard Bohlen, now stranded hundreds of metres inland as the desert has grown, seal colonies of tens of thousands at Cape Cross, and dry riverbeds like the Hoarusib and Hoanib that cut green ribbons through the desert.
Those riverbeds are home to desert-adapted elephants, giraffe and a small population of lions that hunt seals and cormorants on the beach. Seeing them is never guaranteed, which makes it all the more remarkable when it happens.
A shipwreck on the Skeleton Coast
The Zeila, a fishing trawler, ran aground near Henties Bay in 2008 and is now a cormorant roost.

What a three-day fly-in covers

  • Cape Cross seal colony from the air
  • Shipwrecks at low level along the coast
  • The Hoanib riverbed, tracking desert elephants
  • A visit to the clay castles of the Hoarusib

Weight limits

Note
Light aircraft allow 20 kg per person in soft bags. Hard suitcases do not fit in the pod.

About this story

Average rating 5.0 out of 5
2 reviews
  • Amira Saleh
    5 out of 5 stars
    7 Oct

    The packing and photography tips were spot on: a soft bag and a beanbag for the camera were the best advice.

  • Tomás Álvarez
    5 out of 5 stars
    26 Sept

    Booked our camp from this and it was everything described. Waking up to elephants at the waterhole was unreal.

Comments

3 comments
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  • Zanele Dlamini

    Thank you for including the quieter alternatives. The main spot was packed when we went.

  • Noah Williams

    Went back a second time because of this story and found even more to see.

  • Aisha Bello

    We did this last month and the timings were spot on. Thank you for the tip about going early.

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