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ArticleFinland5 min read

How to Sauna Like a Finn

Löyly, lake dips and the art of doing nothing

Average rating 5.0 out of 5
5.02 reviews
A red wooden sauna cabin glowing at dusk beside a Finnish lake
A red wooden sauna cabin glowing at dusk beside a Finnish lake
A lakeside sauna in Finland. Photo: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen)

Finland has around three million saunas for five and a half million people. A short guide to the rules nobody will tell you, and the ones that do not exist.

Not a spa, a habit

For Finns the sauna is not a treat but a weekly, often daily, ritual. Apartment blocks have shared saunas booked by the hour, summer cottages are built around them, and in 2020 Finnish sauna culture joined UNESCO's list of intangible heritage. Nobody goes for the heat alone. The point is the rhythm: heat, cool down, sit, repeat, and talk, or not, as the mood takes you.
The word to learn is löyly, the burst of steam that rises when water hits the hot stones. A good löyly is soft and enveloping rather than scalding, and throwing it is a small social act: ask before you ladle, and do not be offended if the regulars prefer to do it themselves.
On our Lapland trips the sauna is a wood-fired cabin by a frozen lake, with a hole cut in the ice. You do not have to use it. But almost everyone does, once.

How a session goes

  1. Shower first, then sit on a small towel on the bench
  2. Ten minutes of heat, with a ladle or two of löyly
  3. Cool off: a lake, a hole in the ice, a roll in the snow or simply the porch
  4. Rest and drink water, then go back in; three rounds is usual

Naked or not

Tip
Finns sauna naked, separated by gender in public saunas and together with family. On our trips the saunas are private to the group and swimsuits are absolutely fine.
In the sauna one must conduct oneself as in church.Finnish proverb

About this story

Average rating 5.0 out of 5
2 reviews
  • Aroha Ngata
    5 out of 5 stars
    13 Sept

    Wonderful writing about a place that is easy to get wrong. The sauna-then-sea tip made our trip.

  • Kwame Mensah
    5 out of 5 stars
    21 Jul

    Used this to plan a week in the north and it was flawless. The quiet viewpoints you recommend were empty even in July.

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Carved ice sculptures lining the blue-lit main hall of the Icehotel
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