ArticleMendoza, Argentina7 min read

Mendoza: Malbec in the Shadow of Aconcagua

Where we send trekkers to recover

Average rating 4.3 out of 5
4.33 reviews
Rows of vines below snow-capped Andes near Mendoza
Rows of vines below snow-capped Andes near Mendoza
Malbec vineyards in the Uco Valley. Photo: Beatrice Murch

After a week on the trail, nothing beats a few days among the vineyards of Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, with the highest mountain in the Americas on the horizon.

Desert vineyards

Mendoza gets about 200 mm of rain a year, less than parts of the Sahel. That it is also the source of three quarters of Argentina's wine is down to the Andes: snowmelt from the cordillera has been channelled into the vineyards through irrigation ditches since before the Spanish arrived, and the altitude, between 700 and 1,500 m, gives cool nights, intense sun and thick-skinned grapes.
The grape is Malbec, brought from Cahors in the 1850s and now far more at home here than in France. Start in Luján de Cuyo, half an hour from the city, where the old family bodegas sit among century-old vines and many can be visited by bicycle. Then drive an hour and a half south to the Uco Valley, where the newer wineries are architecture as much as agriculture, built at 1,100 m against a backdrop of snow-covered peaks.
On a clear day you can see Aconcagua, 6,961 m, from the road to Uspallata. Our Aconcagua Provincial Park day trip walks the first hour of the normal route to the Laguna de Horcones viewpoint, which is as close as most people want to get.
Vineyards below the Andes near Mendoza
Vines at 1,100 m in the Uco Valley.

Three wineries we love

  • A family bodega in Chacras de Coria, reachable by bike
  • A high-altitude Uco Valley winery with a long lunch on the terrace
  • A small natural-wine producer in Maipú, by appointment only
Malbec tastes better when your legs still remember the pass.Valentina Rojas

About this story

Average rating 4.3 out of 5
3 reviews
  • Ben Cohen
    5 out of 5 stars
    6 Oct

    Honest about how hard the climbs are and generous with practical detail. The packing list was spot on.

  • Chiara Conti
    3 out of 5 stars
    30 Sept

    Fine as an overview, but the transport section needs updating: two of the buses no longer run.

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  • Samuel Adeyemi

    Your packing list saved us. It got cold much faster than we expected after sunset.

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