Altiplano and Atacama · story 5 of 5 in this collection
ActivitySan Pedro de Atacama, Antofagasta, Chile

El Tatio Geysers at Sunrise

Steam, frost and a hot-spring breakfast at 4,320 m

Easy
Steam rising from the El Tatio geyser field at dawn
Steam rising from the El Tatio geyser field at dawn
El Tatio at sunrise, 4,320 m. Photo: Alexarje

The highest geyser field in the southern hemisphere is at its best in the freezing hour before sunrise. What to expect on the 4:30 departure from San Pedro.

Why so early

El Tatio has more than 80 active geysers, the largest field in the southern hemisphere, spread across a high basin at 4,320 m, 90 km north of San Pedro. The geysers themselves are small. What makes the place extraordinary is the steam: in the minus-ten air before sunrise, every vent and fumarole sends up a white column that catches the first light.
By 9:00 the sun warms the air and the columns fade, which is why every tour leaves San Pedro around 4:30. The road climbs 2,000 m in two hours, so you may feel the altitude; drink water and walk slowly.
Stay on the marked paths. The crust around the vents is thin, and the water beneath is at 85 °C, the boiling point at this altitude. After sunrise there is breakfast by the van, often eggs boiled in a geyser, and a dip in the thermal pool if you are brave enough to undress in the cold. On the way back we stop at the village of Machuca for llama skewers and at the Putana wetlands for flamingos and vicuñas.
Steam over the El Tatio geysers at dawn
The basin at first light.

Bring

  • Every warm layer you own, plus gloves
  • Swimsuit and a small towel
  • Sunglasses for the drive back

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