Kansai Beyond Kyoto · story 6 of 6 in this collection
StayHatsukaichi, Hiroshima, Japan

Stay the Night on Miyajima

The floating torii after the last ferry leaves

Average rating 4.5 out of 5
4.52 reviews
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The vermilion torii of Itsukushima Shrine standing in the sea at sunset
The vermilion torii of Itsukushima Shrine standing in the sea at sunset
The great torii of Miyajima at sunset. Photo: Jakub Hałun

Day-trippers see Itsukushima's great gate at noon. Overnight guests see it lit at dusk, standing in the tide, with the island to themselves.

Why spend the night

Miyajima is twenty minutes by ferry from the Hiroshima coast and one of the most visited places in Japan, which is exactly why you should sleep on it. By five in the afternoon the last tour groups have gone, the shops along Omotesando pull down their shutters and the island's deer reclaim the beach.
The great vermilion torii of Itsukushima Shrine seems to float at high tide and stands on wet sand at low tide; check the tide tables and you can see both in a single stay. At dusk the gate is lit, and from the water's edge in front of the ryokan district the reflection is perfectly still.
The island's inns are small and traditional. Expect a tatami room, a cedar or stone bath, and a kaiseki dinner built around the local oysters and anago, saltwater eel served over rice. Breakfast comes early, which suits the island: the hike up Mount Misen is best begun before the first ferry arrives.

The great torii at sunset

The vermilion torii of Itsukushima Shrine standing in the sea at sunset

Our picks

  • Iwaso: the island's grand old ryokan, by the maple valley of Momijidani
  • Kurayado Iroha: modern rooms and a rooftop bath facing the torii
  • Jukeiso: on the hillside, with the best view of the shrine at night

About this story

Average rating 4.5 out of 5
2 reviews
  • Tara Traveler
    4 out of 5 stars
    21 Aug

    Great plan, slightly packed for travelling with children. We dropped one stop and it was perfect.

  • Daniel Kim
    5 out of 5 stars
    14 Apr

    The ryokan and onsen advice was spot on. We felt confident instead of nervous about the customs.

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