Great Treks of the Andes · story 6 of 6 in this collection
ActivityEl Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina

Walking on the Perito Moreno Glacier

Crampons, crevasses and whisky with glacier ice

Average rating 3.0 out of 5
3.02 reviews
Moderate
Roped trekkers in crampons on the Perito Moreno glacier
Roped trekkers in crampons on the Perito Moreno glacier
The mini-trekking route on Perito Moreno. Photo: Fernando

The boardwalks are spectacular, but nothing compares to strapping on crampons and walking across the ice of the Perito Moreno itself.

A glacier that is still advancing

Most of the world's glaciers are retreating. The Perito Moreno, 80 km from El Calafate, has been roughly stable for a century: its 5 km wide front advances about two metres a day, and every few years it dams the southern arm of Lago Argentino until the water breaks through in a rupture that makes the national news.
The boardwalks on the Magallanes peninsula bring you face to face with the 60 m wall of ice, and you should spend at least two hours there listening to it crack and calve. But to really understand it you need to walk on it. A boat crosses the Brazo Rico to the southern edge of the glacier, where guides fit you with crampons and lead you through a landscape of blue pools, seracs and bottomless sinkholes.
There are two options. Minitrekking spends about 90 minutes on the ice and suits anyone aged 10 to 65 who is reasonably fit. Big Ice is a full day with three to four hours on the ice, a steep moraine approach and an upper age limit of 50.
Roped trekkers in crampons on the Perito Moreno glacier
The ice front of the Perito Moreno glacier above Lago Argentino
Roped trekkers in crampons on the Perito Moreno glacier
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What to bring

  • Waterproof jacket and trousers
  • Gloves: the ice is sharp and cold
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Packed lunch for Big Ice; minitrekking ends with a whisky on the rocks

About this story

Average rating 3.0 out of 5
2 reviews
  • Oliver Bennett
    1 out of 5 stars
    6 Oct

    The route description underplays the difficulty. Two of us turned back on the second pass.

  • James O'Connor
    5 out of 5 stars
    5 Sept

    We trekked with Andes Trails after reading this and it matched the real thing step for step. Unforgettable.

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