Florence Beyond the Duomo

The Oltrarno, the far bank of the Arno, is where Florence still makes things. Workshops for gilding, bookbinding, shoes and picture frames line the streets around Santo Spirito, and the piazza in front of Brunelleschi's plain-fronted church is the neighbourhood's living room, with a morning market and terraces that fill at aperitivo time. Look for the small buchette del vino, the stone wine windows in palace walls through which wine was once sold.