Gaudí Beyond the Sagrada Família

Start in Gràcia at Casa Vicens, his first major house, finished in the 1880s: Moorish tiles, cast-iron palm leaves and still mostly square. Then Palau Güell, just off La Rambla, where the rooftop chimneys first become sculpture. On the Passeig de Gràcia, Casa Batlló has a roof like the back of a dragon and barely a right angle inside, and a few blocks up Casa Milà, La Pedrera, ripples like a quarry face. Finish at Park Güell, where the architecture finally dissolves into landscape.